Roadside Support for Singapore Cars with Failed “Keyless Go” Sensors Preventing Ignition | MyMechanic
Keyless Go is effortless—until the car thinks the key isn’t there. If the start button won’t crank, the cluster shows “Key Not Detected,” or doors won’t unlock despite a healthy battery, the priority is safe, simple steps that avoid draining the system or triggering a lockout. MyMechanic supports Singapore‑registered cars across Malaysia with calm triage, clean restart guidance, and careful recovery when ignition remains blocked.
What this fault looks like
“Key Not Detected” or “Place Key Near Column” messages; start button does nothing, or accessories power on but no crank.
Doors unlock via the fob but ignition won’t hand‑shake—or the opposite: ignition lights up but remote locking is dead.
Intermittent detection that worsens with heavy rain, heat, or after a weak‑battery episode.
Interior antennas near the console/column fail to see the key even when it’s in the cabin.
Immediate steps (try once, calmly)
Safety setup: Park safely, hazards on; engage Park and parking brake; keep passengers out of live lanes.
Clean restart sequence: Place the key at the emergency detection spot (often by the column, cupholder base, or start button); fully press brake/clutch; select P/N; switch off; wait 60–90 seconds; press start once—no throttle blips.
Reduce electrical load: Turn off HVAC, lights, and infotainment; pause briefly, then retry the clean sequence once.
Check simple blockers: All doors and bonnet/hood shut; seatbelt latched for models that require it; try a second key if available.
How MyMechanic helps on the spot
12V sanity check: Marginal batteries or poor terminals can upset keyless modules—quick health and connection checks reduce guesswork.
Fob/receiver basics: Use the emergency detection spot, confirm brake switch and shifter P/N status, and eliminate common logic blockers.
Immobiliser‑safe handling: If ignition remains blocked, avoid repeated crank attempts that drain voltage and trigger deeper lockouts.
Controlled towing: Low‑angle flatbed, soft straps at approved points, and care around bumpers/antenna zones and underbody aero.
Clear communication: ETAs, simple steps, and what to expect next keep actions calm and compliant.
Common causes we see
Weak or recently stressed 12V battery causing module brownouts and “no key” handshakes.
Fob issues: low coin cell, damaged buttons, or electronic/metal interference near the key.
Antenna/receiver glitches in the cabin—moisture, heat, or loose trims around the console/column.
Switch logic blockers: brake switch not signaling, P/N not recognized, or bonnet/door ajar sensors preventing start.
Preventive habits for cross‑border trips
Healthy 12V: Replace tired batteries before long drives; clean and tighten terminals/grounds.
Spare fob battery: Carry a fresh coin cell and know the emergency detection spot.
Keep receiver areas tidy; avoid piling metal objects with the key.
If ignition is marginal, disable auto start‑stop and reduce HVAC load at long lights.
Keyless Go Won’t Start? MyMechanic Can Help Now
Share exact location, model/trim, battery age, and whether brake lights work. We’ll run quick 12V/fob/logic checks, then coordinate a low‑angle flatbed with sensor‑safe tie‑downs if ignition remains blocked.
Keyless no‑starts are often simple voltage or detection issues, but repeated cranks can make them worse. With one clean restart attempt, voltage and logic checks, and controlled flatbed loading when needed, progress stays safe and stress stays low.
